Bonobo

Congo River Basin,
Democratic Republic of the Congo

Deep in the heart of Africa lies the Democratic Republic of the Congo. It is the only country that is home to the bonobo - one of the great apes. First recognized as a distinct species in 1929, bonobos are known as “the last great ape” - reflecting how little time - just a century - has passed since their discovery. Until then, their close resemblance to chimpanzees led many to believe they were simply an unusual variant.

I traveled to the jungle where they live. From Kinshasa, the capital, it took several days by Cessna aircraft and car to reach the bonobo’s forest. The forest was dense and rugged, making even walking a challenge. I pushed through tangled undergrowth, my body soaked in sweat as I slowly made my way forward.

Eventually, I spotted a male bonobo high in the trees. I froze in place, careful not to disturb the bonobo staring intently back at me. I don’t know how much time passed, but eventually he looked away with a calmness that suggested his guard had dropped, and he began to relax. I sensed that he was allowing me to stay close, and that made me a little happy. Looking into his eyes, I sensed that he was, in many ways, just like us.

Just before returning home, I contracted malaria. A recurring high fever left me weak and disoriented. It was a life-threatening situation. Fortunately, I had malaria medication with me. I took it immediately and avoided serious complications.

From the window of the Cessna returning to the capital, I looked out over the hazy expanse of the Congo Basin. Though the encounter was brief, I was grateful to have crossed paths with the bonobo before heading home.